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[Guide] Fitting a New Head Unit
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parker13
Fri Jul 24 2009, 03:01AM


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This guide contains step-by-step instructions on installing a new head unit into a Ka. This is what I did on my 53 Sportka, but most of it will apply to any Ka. I did it to get MP3 compatibility, but what surprised me was how much better the sound quality was over the standard Ford 6000 stereo.

The unit I fitted is a Pioneer DEH-P4100SD. Nothing too fancy, but it does have iPod compatibility and an SD card slot. I bought a 16 GB SD card for £20 to save me keeping my iPod in the car all the time.

The whole job should take no more than an hour to complete.

1. Shopping list
Here's everything you'll need. The fascia plate is the correct colour for my Sport. Other models may vary. Note that it's best to pay extra and get the Ford fascia because it's a perfect colour match and comes with a clip and aerial adaptor.

New head unit, obviously. (Pioneer DEH-P4100SD) £138 from Amazon
ISO to Ford harness adaptor (Autoleads PC2-08-4) £15.99 from Halfords, but cheaper online
Sportka facia plate Cosmos Grey, aerial adaptor, hanger clip (Ford part number F1320215) £34.95 from www.allenparts.com
DIN-E radio removal tools/keys (Autoleads: PC5-83 or Halfords' own) £4.99


2. Eject any CDs in the old head unit
It's very easy to leave your favourite CD in the old player!


3. Disconnect battery
Some may say this is not necessary, but it only takes a minute. Use a spanner to loosen the leftmost nut of the negative terminal (circled). Pull the lead off and move to one side. Apologies for my messy battery!


4. Remove old unit
Insert both keys into the holes until they click, then pull them towards the doors to disengage the unit. It should then pull out. Chuck it in the bin. OK, maybe keep it just in case.


5. Disconnect fog light switch
Remove the green plug from the fog light switch. The switch itself comes out of the front of the fascia. Allow it through by squeezing the metal springs.


6. Disconnect leads and aerial


7. Check clip fits OK
The white plasitc clip which comes with the Ford fascia is used to hold the back of the stereo in place. This pic shows me making sure it fits OK. I then removed it and screwed it onto the new head unit (next section).


8. Fit clip to new head unit
The white clip screws onto the new head unit using a screw which came with the stereo. The nut I used came with the Ford facsia, but a similar one also came with the stereo.



9. Fit aerial adaptor
The aerial adaptor came with the Ford fascia.


10. Fit leads and ISO adaptor
Here, I connect the ISO lead which came with the head unit. I then connect the ISO->Ford adaptor leads.



10. Fit fog lamp switch to new fascia plate
Push the fog lamp switch through the front of the new fascia. Make sure you get it the right way up (light at the top).


11. Connect fog lamp switch lead
Reconnect the green fog lamp plug to the switch.


12. Fit fascia
Clip the new fascia into the dash.


13. Remove trim from new head unit
The black trim from around the new head unit should be removed. I pinched it from the top and bottom and it pinged off.


14. Connect leads
Connect the brown and black plugs. They are both black on the car side, but one is a bit bigger than the other. On mine the smaller plug had one pin less on the car side. However, this pin is not used and the plug fit fine without it so you can't go wrong. Also, connect the green aerial lead.



15. Insert head unit into dash
Once it's all cabled up, fit it into the dash by hooking the white clip under and into the hole. It's a bit fiddly. Then, simply push the unit in and the clip should slide onto the slider.

Alternatively, you have the option here of securing the cage into the hole first. However, this means you have to reach behind the dash to fit the clip, which can be difficult. See comments below for details.




16. Fit trim
Clip the black trim onto the stereo.


17. Reconnect battery


18. Rock!




[ Edited Tue Jul 28 2009, 06:59AM ]

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ReallyTallDude
Fri Jul 24 2009, 10:23AM


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NIce guide ,will definately be using this when i attempt it over the next 2 weeks =]

Olly

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parker13
Fri Jul 24 2009, 10:48AM


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Cheers. TBH I got most of the info from scouring this site. It was just a matter of pulling it all together.

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ReallyTallDude
Fri Jul 24 2009, 11:13AM


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parker13 wrote ...

Cheers. TBH I got most of the info from scouring this site. It was just a matter of pulling it all together.


Just nice to see it all in pictures


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ir_427
Fri Jul 24 2009, 11:49AM


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Really nice job, Parker. This is how all guides should be IMHO... Picture by picture awesomeness.
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David_17
Fri Jul 24 2009, 03:58PM


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Very nice guide. Just a couple of things...

parker13 wrote ...

The whole job should take no more than an hour to complete.


Also, before step 12 you should really fit the metal cage (off the headunit) to the fascia, by sliding it in place then bending the metal pins out to hold it in place.



~



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parker13
Fri Jul 24 2009, 04:06PM


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David_17 wrote ...

Very nice guide. Just a couple of things...

parker13 wrote ...

The whole job should take no more than an hour to complete.


Also, before step 12 you should really fit the metal cage (off the headunit) to the fascia, by sliding it in place then bending the metal pins out to hold it in place.




Thanks for spotting the mistake!

Interesting point about the cage. My unit wouldn't slide in our out of the cage with the plastic clip secured to the back, so it was impossible to fit the cage first.

So, I just slid the whole thing in, cage and all. Might make it tricky to get out, I guess...


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Festa T
Fri Jul 24 2009, 05:26PM


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parker13 wrote ...

David_17 wrote ...

Very nice guide. Just a couple of things...

parker13 wrote ...

The whole job should take no more than an hour to complete.


Also, before step 12 you should really fit the metal cage (off the headunit) to the fascia, by sliding it in place then bending the metal pins out to hold it in place.




Thanks for spotting the mistake!

Interesting point about the cage. My unit wouldn't slide in our out of the cage with the plastic clip secured to the back, so it was impossible to fit the cage first.

So, I just slid the whole thing in, cage and all. Might make it tricky to get out, I guess...



Its not impossible, just very fiddly. You put the white clip on the hanger first and leave it on. Attach the fascia and then the cage. As stated, bend the pins on the metal to secure it and then feed the HU in with the wires connected.

Then comes the fun bit, feed your hand up the back of the dash from the passenger side holding the nut with your finger tips. Gently feed the HU all the way in and slot the screw into the white hanger. Attach the nut and jobs a good'un. Id NEVER run a HU without securing the metal cage, asking for issues and makes it very easy to steal as a job lot.

[ Edited Tue Jul 28 2009, 07:03PM ]



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Phil_Finter_Ka
Fri Jul 24 2009, 09:59PM
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When i got my Ka someone took the support thing for the back out, i found it such a pic to get in when i got a new one but i made it work
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parker13
Tue Jul 28 2009, 07:05AM


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Festa T wrote ...

Its not impossible, just very fiddly. You put the white clip on the hanger first and leave it on. Attach the fascia and then the cage. As stated, bend the pins on the metal to secure it and then feed the HU in with the wires connected.

Then comes the fun bit, feed your hand up the back of the dash from the passenger side holding the nut with your finger tips. Gently feed the HU in the way in and slot the screw into the white hanger. Attach the nut and jobs a good'un. Id NEVER run a HU without securing the metal cage, asking for issues and makes it very easy to steal as a job lot.


Good points. I've updated the guide with this information.

I guess the main point is that if the cage is not secured in place then you can remove the entire unit without using the supplied keys.

Having said that, I'm going to leave mine as it is; if a thief's going to nick it then he may as well get it out with as little damage as possible!

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